Cagliari

The age-old history of Cagliari is clearly perceived on a stroll through the streets of the city, which was founded in the Neolithic period when it was constructed by Phoenician-Punic rulers. 

 

The city is divided into different districts, each with specific features: the Marina district, inhabited by traders and fishermen, the Castello district, home to Medieval relics, the Stampace district, positioned below the castle walls and once the home of artists and craftsmen, and the Villanova district, where farmers who emigrated from the nearby Campidano plain became established. Cagliari seen from the sea, offers an impressive scenic skyline which houses ancient neighborhoods.

 

 

One of the most important districts of Cagliari is Villanova. Here religion, ancient history, archaeology and culture come together in a place where farmers from the nearby plain of Campidano settled at the end of the XIII century so that they could follow trading of their products more easily. Villanova however has always been perceived as district in itself, almost a unique village attached to the city.

 

 

The historic part of the district, which in past times was enclosed by a town wall, extends along several parallel streets: Via San Giovanni, the most important, Via Piccioni, Via San Giacomo and Via San Domenico, which are all connected to one another by picturesque alleyways. The simple houses of only one or two floors, with craft workshops and shops on the ground floor, are a distinctive feature of Villanova.

 

 

Starting our itinerary from Piazza Costituzione and Bastione Saint Remy, in Piazza Marghinotti, we are immediately struck by the sheer size of the imposing Palazzo Valdès, which was built in the Eclectic style of the early twentieth century. This building is topped by the crest of the family who set up an important printing works here, which was operational up until only a few years ago.

 

Via San Giovanni, Cagliari. Photo: Sisterscom.com, Shutterstock

 

Via San Giovanni begins on one side of the square. The houses in this street have narrow façades and internally overlook small courtyards or larger gardens, indicating their origins as vegetable plots that became surrounded over time by the residence. Even some of the more modest buildings, with their Art Nouveau and Deco motifs, are splendid. The alleyways that radiate from Via San Giovanni in Cagliari had interesting names until the end of the nineteenth century such as Bello (Beautiful), Vecchio (Old), Delle Scale (of the Steps), di Mezzo (in the Middle) and dell’Amiciziea (of Friendship)…, names that were later replaced by a simple number.

The Church dedicated to St. John is located in a widened area that opens between the houses in the first section of the street and plays a key role in the ritual of Holy week: in fact since 1679 it has been the seat of the Arciconfraternita della Vergine Santissima della Solitudine (Archconfraternity of the Most Holy Virgin Mary of Solitude), which is involved in this old tradition, an important event in the religious and social life of Cagliari and a ritual that attracts thousands of followers due to the fact that has remained unchanged over the centuries. In addition to the Church of San Giovanni, the Church of San Cesello is also located near Porta Cavana, which is dedicated to one of the children martyred in the IV century. It was built in 1702 at the request of the federation of coopers, but is today entrusted to the care of cloistered nuns of the Sacrementine order.

 

A view of Cagliari from above with the port and the famous Poetto beach. Photo: Sisterscom.com, Shutterstock

 

After the Church of San Cesello, we take the alleyway called Vico VII San Giovanni, then turn left towards Via San Saturnino, taking a flight of steps to Terrapieno, one of the most beautiful promenades of Cagliari, with its age-old pines and breathtaking view that extends from nearby Campidano to the sea.

 

The public gardens and the municipal art gallery. Photo: Sisterscom.com, Shutterstock

 

Cagliari. Photo: Sisterscom.com, Shutterstock