27 February 2024

Antonio Marras Autumn/Winter 2024-25 Women's Collection

The show at Milan Fashion Week inspired by Eleonora D'Arborea, Judicissa - Medieval Princess of Sardinia

In Milan, Antonio Marras unveils his new women's collection in a setting of medieval towers, narrating the royal story of a princess. Eleanor D’Arborea, who lived between the mid-1300s and early 1400s, was the last indigenous ruler of the island capable of uniting under one flag the various Sardinian populations, who for the first time recognised themselves as a “nation” and defeated the Aragonese.

Antonio Marras Autumn/Winter 2024-25 Women's Collection. Copyright © Antonio Marras

Her name is closely linked to the Carta de Logu, the extraordinary legal text in the Sardinian language setting out the rules of civil and criminal law valid for the kingdom of Arborea, which remained in force until 1827. The Carta de Logu dealt with all aspects of the lives of its subjects, from fire, the island’s atavistic problem, reserving heavy fines for arsonists and providing firebreaks, to land-owning and crimes, explicitly repudiating the ancient barbarian rule that spilled blood could be wiped away by gold, and a life could be repaid with a purse of coins. At least in these cases, the rich and the poor were finally equal.

The figure of Eleanor D’Arborea is shrouded in mystery. We can imagine her in her favourite activity: hunting with falcons, riding through her lands, her inseparable falcon on her wrist ready to obey her as it soars through the air. An art practised by kings and queens.

Her court must have been no less opulent than that of Aragon and her wardrobe not unlike that of Queen Sybil, wife of King Peter. In Sardinia, people used to dress “sa francesa” or “sa sardisca”.

We think of her as regal, rebellious, independent and innovative. For her and the inhabitants of her kingdom, we imagined embroidered brocades, floral-patterned damasks, black and white or red and black checks, houndstooth, pinstripes, chevrons, camouflage, painted or gold-smeared wools, devoré velvets, flock, rose voiles, brushstroke chiffons, lace, embroidery, inlays and diamond-shaped patches. Glitter and dangling threads.

Opulent sheepskins and aged stretch leather and coloured or shiny leather, zips, broaches and buckles. Decorated sweaters, landscape jacquards, knitwear paired with jet, argyle, braiding and inlays. Slinky or bell-shaped dresses, striking outerwear, capes, oversize or minute jackets, cargo or high-waisted pants, bodices, draped skirts and many, many white shirts. The colours are the greens of the undergrowth, yellow, red, gold and black.

The runway show by Eleonora D’Arborea is dedicated to Carmelo Tedeschi. He was among the first designers to join Antonio Marras' workshop in Alghero. A Sicilian but a citizen of the world, after Alghero and Berlin, he had made Fez his residence. He worked with leather as one works with clay or bread, with wisdom and passion. An artist not just a designer. His hands were the expression of his being: generous, large, flexible, industrious, imaginative, ingenious, and endless. In this runway show, there are some of his works conceived for Eleonora, unfortunately, the last ones.

In his room, he wanted a sewing machine that he continued to use with dedication whenever he had the strength. "We are indebted to Carmelo Tedeschi for beauty, kindness, and wonder", says Antonio Marras.

Edited by Nicole Villa

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