The Trussardi Parfums lux collection

From 20 to 26 September in Milan the most awaited event of the year is held: the Fashion Week. In those days events, parades and parties will animate the streets of the Milanese city. This event can be celebrated through the olfactory map created for Trussardi by a pool of famous essences. Eight precious unisex fragrances created after tracing an olfactory map of the city of Milan by classifying the Milanese style, emotion and habits.  

 

 

It belongs to the olfactory family of oriental floral musks. It is a rich and silky fragrance that perfectly evokes the atmosphere of the so-called golden quadrilateral. In its golden jus Quentin Bisch and Amélie Jacquin have added a sweet note of honey that immediately brings to mind the two Pastry Shops Cova and Marchesi where you meet before, during or after the slalom between the windows of Via Montenapoleone. The notes of rose, mahonial jasmine and heliotropin add the seal of luxury understood as a necessity along Via della Spiga, Via Sant'Andrea and Via Gesù.

 

The olfactory composition evokes the sublime elegance of the Gallery, which connects the Gothic solemnity of the Duomo with the neoclassical style of Piermarini Fulgido, an example of iron architecture. It was built in Milan in 1865 and faithfully reproduced 15 years later at the behest of the Tsar inside the Gum warehouses on Moscow's Red Square. In the so-called "living room of the Milanese" the scents of the bars and tea rooms mix with the expensive scents of the fur-clad ladies and men in tuxedos who cross it to reach La Scala. Julie Massé has built an exciting cocktail of hazelnut, vanilla and coffee, tuberose, cinnamon and cedarwood.

 

 

In the complex olfactory score of Behind The Curtain Piazza alla Scala, Amandine Marie lets the different notes be distinguished (one for all saffron ) and then merges them into a single melody that passes seamlessly from baritone tones (sandalwood and cedar) to those of a soprano with the vocal range of Maria Callas, from the vivacity of falsetto (bergamot and jasmine) to the unfathomable depths of the alto (labdanum and patchouli).

 

With the accords of amaretto and the citrus notes of mandarin leaves, the nose celebrates the contrast between the Italian convivial tradition and the absolute modernity of the district where the tallest skyscraper in Italy stands (the Unicredit Tower by César Pelli or the Bosco Verticale by Stefano Boeri). There is the brightness of Calabrian bergamot enhanced by neroli, while the olfactory depth of heliotrope is diluted in the sweetness of the base notes (vanilla and benzoin).

 

 

In the maze of alleys and alleys that lead from Via Fiori Chiari to Brera there is everything. You can breathe the rebellious spirit of the artists who have frequented the Pinacoteca di Brera since the end of the 1700s, 24 thousand square meters of culture and beauty. A stone's throw from here is the botanical garden commissioned by Maria Theresa of Austria. And then there is the Bar Jamaica, the fortune tellers' stalls stationed in front of the historic boutiques of the neighborhood and the opulent scents that come out of the niche perfumeries concentrated all in Via Brera. The nose Pierre Costantin Guéros has perfectly reconstructed this once-in-a-lifetime atmosphere with ingredients full of personality such as cardamom, star anise, elemi (the resinous gum extracted from a tree in the Philippines) and marigolds.

 

It is a dual-use fragrance, it enhances the olfactory accords of the other seven fragrances of the Luxe Collection Le vie di Milano, but it also lives on its own, with only the top and base notes magnificently orchestrated by Leslie Gauthier. What at first glance seems a very simple olfactory composition hides an intrinsic complexity due to the deliberate contrast between iris and musk,     A must-have as both an Enancher and an Eau de Parfum, it creates an unprecedented milestone in the luxury fragrance  segment that adds value and prestige to the entire Trussardi Parfums collection.

 

 

It is a citrus floral built with a focus on sustainability. The ingredients are natural in 48 4 of the cases and the fragrance is 91 9 biodegradable The " Sylvie Fischer has faithfully reproduced the aromas that can be perceived from the balcony of a house overlooking the Navigli on a spring morning, when the air is still crisp and confuses the memory of an exciting evening with the desire for a wonderful summer. The top notes glide smoothly from the citrus tones of bitter orange oil and lime oil to the unmistakable touch of basil oil. In the heart notes, the sparkling Spritz accord is warmed by juniper oil and enhanced by the bitter and green tones of bigarade petitgrain oil. The latter is extracted by processing not only the fruits but also the leaves and twigs of the plant. It is therefore the ideal prelude to the base notes that open on Ambroxan, a sustainable olfactory molecule because it is obtained in Spain by chemically processing clary sage. From Ambroxan, which perfectly reproduces the smell of ambergris, we move on to vetiver oil and from here to Succan absolute diluted by Musk.

 

The Porta Venezia gardens are the first public park in Milan. Inaugurated in 1784 by Archduke Ferdinand of Habsburg d'Este, they were initially designed by Giuseppe Piermarini, the architect of La Scala. They include the Spanish walls, the gardens of the Dugnani family, the land of two monasteries suppressed by the Austrians and the gardens of the Royal Villa in Via Palestro. The essence maker Pierre Constantin Guéros imagines wandering in this Eden a few steps from Piazza Duomo under the effect of the so-called Fée Vert, or the absinthe sung by the "cursed poets" such as Baudelaire or Rimbaud and immortalized in a poignant painting by Degas. This time the herbal liqueur created at the end of the 1700s by the French doctor Pierre Ordinaire becomes the keystone to enter into all the secrets of nature, in its dark sides as well as in its bright ones. The result is an intoxicating and at the same time dangerous scent  : two forbidden drops hidden among woods and flowers. The olfactory score opens on the aromatic freshness of star anise enhanced by lemon oil and a spicy hint of black pepper sealed by Belanis, a synthetic molecule that tastes of white flowers and jasmine with facets of anise, licorice, saffron, apoponax and basil. The fée vert explodes in the heart notes with mugwort oil that binds to that of absinthe taking on the sensual shades of Madagascar geranium and violet leaves. The grand finale is given by a decisive ensemble of woody tones (fir balm absolute and cedarwood oil) on the insinuating sweetness of bourbon vanilla from Madagascar.

 

All fragrances are Eau de Parfum 100 ml Natural Spray - 170€.