A. Lange & Söhne illuminates Haute Horlogerie
With the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen", A. Lange & Söhne signs one of the finest expressions of its haute horlogerie by merging two major complications within the unmistakable architecture of the Lange 1. The result is a timepiece that combines tourbillons with stop-seconds and perpetual calendar with a reading that is perfectly legible even in the dark, thanks to a sophisticated system of luminescent indications. A watch of extreme technical complexity, capable at the same time of expressing a form of rare and measured elegance.
The model reinterprets the language of the Lange 1, famous for its off-center dial, with a construction that remains immediately recognizable but is enriched with new functions and an even more distinctive visual presence. The arrangement of the indications follows the shape of an isosceles triangle: an imaginary vertical line connects the Big Date, the retrograde indication of the day of the week, the seconds hand and the moon phases, while the center of the hours and minutes coincides with the upper vertex of the triangle. Unlike traditional models, the months are indicated by a rotating ring along the edge of the dial, while the leap year is placed in a small window at 6 o'clock.
All calendar indications advance with exact shots, ensuring impeccable readability at all times. The calendar mechanisms can be conveniently adjusted, together or separately, using the correctors on the side of the case. The architecture of the perpetual calendar is also designed in such a way that, by keeping the timepiece constantly running, the only manual correction required will be March 1 of the secular year 2100.
Visually, the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen" is based on two central principles: contrast and transparency. The light platinum case dialogues with a dark dial and the hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, while on the dial itself rhodium-plated gold hands and indexes stand out together with the white graduations, ensuring excellent legibility. The movement also takes up this principle of contrast, alternating glossy and light surfaces with other opaque or darker ones.
However, the transparency of the dial is not just an aesthetic choice: it responds to a precise construction need. In fact, it allows the underlying indications to be charged with light and then return their luminescence in the dark. It is precisely this particular construction, together with the arrangement of the luminescent elements, that gives life to a design that changes expression between day and night while always maintaining a strong formal coherence.
One of the most fascinating aspects of the model is the new interpretation of luminescence, treated not as a simple spectacular effect but as an integral part of the language of the timepiece. All indications are luminescent and therefore perfectly legible even in the dark, but the combination of larger surfaces and more filigree details creates an elegant, nuanced light full of depth.
The focal point is the luminescent Big Date, which makes the sophisticated mechanism formed by the cross of tens and the disk of units visible in the dark. The first luminescent moon phase display with integrated day/night function also makes its debut. Behind the moon moves a celestial disk that makes a complete clockwise rotation every 24 hours: during the day it appears as a clear sky without stars, at night as a dark firmament dotted with luminescent stars. Above this background, the moon slowly follows its orbit, reproducing the visible portion of the Earth's satellite with extreme precision. The calculated deviation of this indication is only one day every 122.6 years.
The leap year display at 6 o'clock also stands out with the same uniform intensity as the Big Date thanks to the luminescent coating. The hour, minute, second and day of the week hands, on the other hand, shine with a more subtle and refined light. All other indications, scales, appliqués and the contour of the moon are backlit and are distinguished by a more nuanced luminescence.
The complexity of the timepiece is not limited to the reading of the time and the calendar. The semi-transparent dial also allows a glimpse of the movement underneath, with its articulated calendar mechanism and the richness of its decorative finishes. Examples include perlage plates, sunray bridges, levers with precise linear grinding, circular grain gears and bevelled edges, all of which testify to the highest level of craftsmanship. Added to this is the chromatic beauty of the materials, which further contributes to the charm of the piece.
The tourbillon is not immediately visible on the dial, but can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback, where the cage makes one rotation per minute to compensate for the effect of gravity and improve precision, together with the in-house balance spring. The movement works at 21,600 vibrations per hour.
A central technical element is the stop-seconds mechanism, which immediately locks the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out and allows precise adjustment to the second. This solution is based on a V-shaped stop spring, patented in 2008.
At the heart of the watch is the new Manufacture automatic calibre L225.1, designed to integrate tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phase, Big Date and stop-seconds in a highly complex ensemble. The finishes also reflect the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie: the tourbillon cage, the tourbillon bridge and the intermediate wheel bridge made of stainless steel are finished with the sophisticated black polishing, achieved by hand, while the edges and inner corners are carefully chamfered and polished.
The winding is entrusted to an 18-carat white gold central rotor, with an external oscillating weight in 950 platinum, which allows a power reserve of 50 hours to be achieved. Completing the movement are high-quality decorative details, such as the hand-engraved stars and shooting star on the bridges and the traditional diamond counter-pin in the center of the tourbillon, a tribute to the historic 1A quality pocket watches by A. Lange & Söhne.
The watch is completed by a black leather strap and a folding clasp with a 950 platinum quick clasp. The case measures 41.9 millimeters in diameter and 13.0 millimeters thick. Produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the timepiece was presented in Geneva during Watches and Wonders 2026.
By the editorial staff, Avion Luxury Magazine
Text source and photos: A. Lange & Söhne Press
Photo: Copyright © A. Lange & Söhne
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