13 July 2022

Dior Autumn-Winter 2022-2023 Haute Couture Collection

The tree of life: a call, a warning, to make traditions and gestures shine through, allowing us to recover a balance, if only momentarily

The tree of life is at the heart of Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko’s work, and the starting point for the Dior autumn-winter 2022-2023 haute couture collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Passage 2 - Numéro 519. Silk and cotton veil dress inlaid with an ecru and white floral guipure band. Copyright: Dior

Passage 1 - Numéro 518. Shirt and skirt in lace patchwork and braids of ecru and greige guipure. Copyright: Dior

Painting and embroidery give an emotional charge to this image that is a symbol for different far-flung cultures and mythologies. The tree of life connects all forms of creation; it supports the sky and connects it to the earth through its branches and roots. Olesia Trofymenko’s emblem is in line with stylistic codes shared by many lands.

Passage 12 - Numéro 529. "Tree of life” embroidered coot in polychrome silk needlepoint with dress embroidered with foliage scrolls in matte threads matching the "tree of life” coat. Copyright: Dior

Passage 21 - Numéro 538. Giant beige lampas cashmere coat of various ganse braids and cotton cords in ecru shades highlighted with black, over beige chiffon dress with smocked effect. Copyright: Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri contemplates fashion through the filter of art, exploring this territory of tradition(s) that appear both enduring and revolutionary, iust like couture.

Passage 49 - Numéro 566. Cashmere coot with navy astrakhan effect over pleated skirt

and navy silk georgette shirt. Copyright: Dior

Passage 51 - Numéro 568. Cashmere coat with giant lampas openwork pattern in block gonse braids enhanced

with jet, and navy chiffon dress and entre-deux finishings. Copyright: Dior

This Dior collection is thus composed of a series of pieces through which resonate the imagination of different folkloric customs inspiring all cultures in an open dialogue.

The Dior Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2022-2023 show from Maria Grazia Chiuri

Video: Copyright: Dior

The branches, the trunk, the roots of the tree of life. A vision that features freely on several garments thanks to the profusion of sumptuous embroideries made of cotton threads, silk threads, and yarn. Beige nuances are sometimes punctuated with a touch of black or blue. These embroideries, requiring the time necessary to achieve ultimate excellence, are deployed on cotton fabrics, wool crepe, silk, and cashmere.

Passage 52 - Numéro 569. Long dress in wool crepe embroidered with trims and openwork in block gonse braid

and guipure with silk chiffon sleeves. Copyright: Dior

Passage 55 - Numéro 572. Block silk chiffon dress embroidered

with a crochet breastplate. Copyright: Dior

The dresses are adorned with patchworks of braids composed of bronze and black lace and guipure. Silk chiffon was selected for the long, airy dresses that follow the lines of the body in a virtuoso interplay of smocks. The materials reinterpret the New Look silhouette: the Bar iacket is distinguished by vertically smocked fabric and the skirt is structured by ribbons forming a basque.

Passage 56 - Numéro 573. Long dress in block silk velvet highlighted

with delicate smocking. Copyright: Dior

Passage 59 - Numéro 576. Long dress in silk velvet, openwork neckline in velvet bias

with passementerie effect. Copyright: Dior

Hand-loomed fabrics display precious, irregular textures in garments that banish all hems. Elsewhere, wide silk or cotton embroidered trench coats are associated with long dresses. This is a matter of shaping materials and forms in the space for reflection that the Atelier represents, permeable to the social reality in which we live; a matter of recalling what it means to be human today. Gestures passed on, learned and always perfectible, are repeated.

Edited by Lisa Maria River

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